Sorrento Travel Guide: Where to Stay, Things to Do & Tips for Visiting
The Best of the Amalfi; Sorrento and it’s Surroundings
A short jaunt south from the glories of Rome will land you in an equally impressive, and equally antiquated, area. Stretching along the rocky cliffs that line Italy’s southwestern shores, the mesmerizing Amalfi Coast is one of the classic highlights of any European vacation. Known for it’s seaside towns and magnificent Mediterranean climate, the quaint setting and relaxed atmosphere is a welcome change from the hustle and bustle of the Eternal City. Though this area of the Mediterranean, known as the Tyrrhenian Sea, is host to many picturesque towns, the closest and most gorgeous are that of Sorrento and Positano. Of course, the island of Capri is probably one of the most beautiful spots in all the world, so much so that it will receive it’s very own page (in case you’re wondering why it didn’t make it in). Though several days is ideal to explore as much as possible, even a 2 night sidetrack is well worth the trip.
Why the Train to Sorrento is Your Best Choice
Unless unable to fly into Naples directly from anywhere other than the Rome, the train is by the far most convenient and flexible option to get to the Amalfi Coast. Changing trains at Napoli Centrale station is a quick and easy process, requiring a short walk to the Garibaldi station located directly below the main one. The Circumvesuviana and Campania Express are the two train lines that run south to Sorrento, with the latter being the newer, faster trains that are also a tad pricier. Though the older trains can be more crowded commuter lines with no AC or heat, or journey in February saw it fairly free of tourists and refreshingly brisk. We bundled up and sipped stiff espressos I bought from the tiny food kiosk on the station platform. The Itlailan coast and country rolled by slowly, making the route more scenic and enjoyable than any short, inconvenient plane ride.
Top 3 Reasons Why Sorrento is the Best
1. Best Local Foods
A sizable town, Sorrento is not just some tourist trap lacking in any genuine charm or local culture. Home to many thousands of Italians no matter the season, the authentic atmosphere that hangs like a fresh scent of spring in the shops and restaurants sets the Sorrentine Peninsula apart from many other destinations in the country as a whole. Restaurants run by locals year-round serve up the common cuisine of the area in a laid back, home-cooked fashion. Granted, we were there in the off-season, and every restaurant was pleasantly only half-full with patrons, many of them city workers and professional and their long, leisurely lunches. We sat back and blended in with crowd, sampling the daily specials of risotto and angel hair carbonara, sipping Aperol and espresso. Among the many reasons Sorrento is your best bet, the city itself offers up nothing less than a quintessential small village feel.
3. Authenticity and Flexibility
Of all the reasons that made our Amalfi experience wonderful, the idyllic pace of each day and lack of urgency to complete our itinerary was paramount in making our Sorrento stay one of our most cherished. It being the off-season, we had the luxury of feeling no obligation to accomplish any specific thing on any given day. If one wants to simply take an easy day and slowly stroll around the town, the next day would always offer the same opportunities for island excursions and day trips. The back alley shops that proliferated the nooks and crannies of this magical town offer hours of aimless and wonderful wandering. Sampling an espresso at one cafe, a pasta dish at another, and a gelato cone on the way back is a perfectly acceptable way to indulge in 3 different establishments without the guilty that may accompany someone not on vacation in Italy. On a lazy day in town, it is not only acceptable but standard. We counted 9 different eateries we visited in one day. A record number of restaurants for us in such a short time, we knew we had some calories to burn at Pompeii the next day.
Sorrento on the Amalfi; the Very Best of Italy
The Italian coast just south of Rome is home to some of the most beautiful views in all the Mediterranean. Whether a fan of local faire, or elegant shopping, the shops and restaurants of Sorrento and Positano are some of the best in all of Italy. If outdoor views or historical tours are more your speed, the ruins of Pompeii or the island of Capri (article coming soon) are the easiest of day trips that makes your Amalfi excursion all the more varied, enjoyable and memorable. Even if a few days living and feeling like a local is your ultimate endgame, staying in the heart of downtown Sorrento on the main strip will accomplish just that. Regardless of your agenda, Sorrento and the Amalfi coast is the epitome of a classic Italian vacation. Whether in the heat of summer of the calm chill of the winter, the region will not disappoint.
The Main Strip: Your Best Bet
Our hotel along the main road in downtown Sorrento provided us with the perfect launching point every morning during our 5 day stay. Though we only stayed in one place, we checked out several other hotels along our block, offering a range of choices from the uber-quaint to the hyper-modern. So long as as you stay in the central section of town, your Amalfi escape will be met with ease, no matter what’s on your agenda.
How to Get from Rome to the Amalfi/Sorrento
Most travelers to the Amalfi will more than likely head there from Rome. Flights are available from Rome to Naples, the major city of region. Prices begin around $50 USD, and last roughly around 50 minutes. Though this may sound appealing, it is only about halfway to Sorrento, the town most tourists stay in when visiting the region. The train from Rome to Sorrento is fairly easy, though there is no direct line, and a transfer at the Naples station is required. Those flying into Naples will take this train too, though a taxi ride from the airport to the train station is required. The ride from Rome to Naples, and then Naples to Sorrento, is about 1 hour and 15 minutes each way.
Best Hotels in Sorrento
Having gone in the off-season, we were beyond lucky to have plenty of cheap choices for top hotels. Always a fan of location over amenities, we chose the hotel located along the main stretch of city center. Quaint streets that welcome foot traffic are bisected by tiny alleys leading to pottery and ceramic shops that are prime place to get some souvenirs. Though we booked an ensuite, we were upgraded to an apartment with a small kitchenette classic garden view. With no heat and a low of 35 degrees Fahrenheit, we were feeling the best version of our Bohemians selves, and shopped at the local market right down the block from our building. In the most cliche fashion, we made friends with the old Italian woman who worked the register (and yes, she did give us some cooking tips, and I learned extra-virgin olive oil is best for frying).
2. Easy Access to Capri and Positano
Perhaps more synonymous with the word Amalfi then Naples or Sorrento, the seaside village of Positano is one of the most sought after destinations on the entire boot. Known for its vibrant colors and gorgeous views from every step, it’s energy in season and serenity in the winter made it a memorable day-trip both times I have been there. A short bus ride down the coast, the iconic Mediterranean scenery distracts from the slightly nerve-wrecking twists and turns of the high-perched road. Though those afraid of heights may want to opt for the side of bus opposite the ocean, the 40 minute ride does pass you by as quickly as the rocky green coasts and turquoise blue water. The bus station in Sorrento is a short walk from the main city blocks, and tickets are only about $50-75 depending on the time of year. though more frequent in summer, the winter routes ran from sunrise to midnight roughly every 3 hours.
How to get to Pompeii; An Easy Half-Day Trip from Sorrento
Though we did not go on our most recent trip, the ancient ruins of Pompeii are a must-see for anyone who is in southern Italy for the first-time. Famously buried beneath the ash and pumice of Mount Vesuvius, the ancient resort town was excavated by archaeologists beginning in the 1800s, and has since been curated into one of the best preserved sites from all of antiquity. The easiest way to get there is by train, with prices running from 3-12 Euro, depending on if you take the slower Circumvesuviana Line or the Campania Express (though this open only March to October). Travel times range from 30 to 45 minutes, and the Circumvesuviana runs every half hour. Tours can be booked easily here, and ensure you have a guide waiting when you arrive at Pompeii. Though one can wait to purchase until arriving, they often sell out quickly in peak season, and the options are never as varied and clear as they are Viator..
